Plant collection

Mature Trees 100L and Over

A 100L tree has already spent several years on a farm before it reaches you. On the tree lines it clears head height with a formed canopy and a trunk you can wrap a hand around. Bottlebrush and juniper come at the same volume but stay clothed to the ground. Buy at this grade when the garden has to look finished on a date: a handover, a bare frontage on a new house, a window next door you would rather not stare at for four more years. Do not buy it for a long hedge run. For fast growth in year one, buy smaller. This size spends its first season underground, and smaller stock planted the same day often catches up.

What 100L means once the truck pulls up

100L is the commonest size here, but plenty of lines start smaller and some only begin at 150L or 200L. Pot volume climbs cubically, not by width, so the jump from a 400mm pot to a 100L bag is bigger than it sounds. A 400mm pot holds roughly 35 litres. The bag holds close to three times that in mix and root mass, and watered it can go past 100kg. Not a wheelbarrow job. Work out access before you order: gate width, the step onto the lawn, whether a machine can get to the hole. If not, it gets carried.

Pick the species for the site, then the size

For a hard vertical along a drive, Italian cypress in the Nitschkes Needles form is genuinely narrow and holds that shape with almost no clipping. Leyland cypress is not that plant: broadly conical, a windbreak rather than a line, and it will not reshoot from bare old wood, so cutting a wide one back browns it out for good. For screening, low foliage matters more than height. Brush cherry holds up through Brisbane humidity where a clipped exotic sulks, but it wants steady moisture, and like water gum it will brown off and shed leaf on a dry verge. The natives here that genuinely run on rainfall are the eucalypts, tea trees and kurrajongs. Jerilderie Red runs on very little once established and suits an inland block, though its pods carry fine bristly hairs that itch, worth knowing before you plant one over a footpath. Hackberry is the deciduous shade option, quick, and takes Adelaide heat and the black clay out through Melbourne's west, though it seeds freely and birds spread it, so keep it off creek lines and out of the subtropical east.

The first two summers decide it

A tree this size arrives with more canopy than its root ball can supply. That is transplant check. Everything you do at planting shortens it. Dig wide, and no deeper than the ball sat in the bag. A deep hole in clay backfilled with bagged compost becomes a sump, holding water around the trunk collar all winter until it rots. Break the sides up, backfill with the soil you took out. Stake low and loose against wind rock, ties that will not cut bark, off after twelve months so the trunk can stiffen. Then water: a slow deep soak twice a week through the first two summers, into the ball rather than over the mulch. Autumn suits mild coastal districts. In frost country like the Southern Highlands, wait for spring: an autumn-planted pot gets a few weeks before cold soil stops root growth, then sits all winter in wet ground with frost lifting the ball. Bare root deciduous stock is the exception, going in dormant over winter.

Where a budget has to stretch along a boundary, put 100L at the sightlines and fill between with semi advanced trees. The eye reads the run as established. Advanced trees covers the grades below, and super advanced 200L stock is the same trees in bigger bags.

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